Portable Irrigation Systems

In News by Rex Myers0 Comments

Sometimes an underground watering system isn’t feasible and a portable watering system is needed. At Sprinkler World we have what you are looking for, no matter your application!  One of the manufacturers we carry is K-Line.  K-line systems can be moved while they are operating fairly easily and within a few minutes using an ATV.   Their sprinklers are pressure compensated which result in good uniformity, even with hills or longer lateral lines.

The K-Line System is designed around a series of components selected for their extreme durability and ease of use. The heavy duty K-Line tubing is an integral part of the system and specially formulated to withstand temperature extremes and the exposure to UV while remaining flexible with the necessary lateral strength for shifting. Special heavy duty fittings are designed to withstand the stress of line movement while the sprinklers are operating. The distinctive green lines indicate pipe size and assist in orienting the pipe during installation.

Watch a video about the portable irrigation system and how easily it can be moved;

Visit any one of our locations for more information!

Plants that attract Hummingbirds!

In News by Rex Myers0 Comments

Hummingbird Facts
  • They are the tiniest of all birds, weighing less than an ounce and measuring only 3 inches long.
  • Their brightly-colored, iridescent feathers and quick movements make them appear as living sun catchers—hence their nickname, flying jewels.
  • They have a unique ability to fly in any direction, even backward, with their wings beating up to a blurring 80 beats per second.
  • Plus, they can hover in midair when sipping nectar from brightly–colored flowers with their long, slender beaks.
  • While whizzing about the garden, hummingbirds expend so much energy that they must eat at least half of their body weight each day to replace the 12,000 calories that they can burn up. This means eating almost constantly from sunrise to sunset and visiting over a thousand flowers every day.
  • The key to attracting hummingbirds to your yard is to plant lots of flowers and provide the habitat that will give them shade, shelter, food, and security.

  • Herbs, flowering shrubs, dwarf trees, and vines all can be used to create an ideal tiered habitat from ground level to 10 feet or more.
  • Provide lots of space between plants to give hummingbirds enough room to hover and navigate from flower to flower.
  • Hummingbirds love water, especially if it is moving. A gentle, continuous spray from a nozzle or a sprinkler hose is perfect for a bath on the fly.
  • Hummingbirds do not have a keen sense of smell and rely on bright colors to find their food.
  • They are particularly fond of red and are often observed investigating feeders with red parts, red plant labels, red thermometers, and even red clothes on a gardener. Note: Do not use red dye in a hummingbird feeder; there is concern that it may harm the birds. Instead, use plain, clear sugar water (1 part white sugar mixed with 4 parts water). The birds love it! If your feeder does not have red on it, attach a red label or other item to attract them.
  • Brightly–colored flowers that are tubular hold the most nectar, and are particularly attractive to hummingbirds. These include perennials such as bee balms, columbines, daylilies, and lupines; biennials such as foxgloves and hollyhocks; and many annuals, including cleomes, impatiens, and petunias.
Common Name Latin Name
Beard tongue Penstemon
Bee balm Monarda
Butterfly bush Buddleia
Catmint Nepeta
Clove pink Dianthus
Columbine Aquilegia
Coral bells Heuchera
Daylily Hemerocallis
Larkspur Delphinium
Desert candle Yucca
Flag Iris
Flowering tobacco Nicotiana alata
Foxglove Digitalis
Lily Lilium
Lupine Lupinus
Pentas Pentas
Petunia Petunia
Pincushion flower Scabiosa
Red-hot poker Kniphofia
Scarlet sage Salvia splendens
Scarlet trumpet honeysuckle Lonicera sempervirens
Soapwort Saponaria
Summer phlox Phlox paniculata
Verbena Verbena
Weigela Weigela

Seeding and Sod tips

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Never layer the soil with a topical amendment. Always till it in. Level the soil as best as possible. The new soil needs to settle naturally or by watering again. Rake to remove rocks and so the soil has small groves in it. Place the seed on the soil using a seed spreader. Put 1/2 of the seed down in one direction, perhaps lengthwise, and stop. Then put down the other 1/2 of the seed in the other direction. Lightly rake the seed in, and roll the soil lightly with a roller. Placing a thin layer of compost or composed steer manure on top of the seed will hold moisture and aid in seed germination. Do not apply more than 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch of composted steer manure.
Water 3 to 4 times daily for short intervals until the seed germinates. Do not allow puddles to form. If they do the seed will run down to the low spots and uneven grass density will occur. Standing puddles of water will “drown” seeds and kill them. When the plants emerge reduce water frequency but increase application duration so that water will wet the entire depth of the rooting area.


Installation of sod can be a rewarding and satisfying event in landscape enhancement. Below are some of the most common concerns you need to know about sod installation.

Storage — Sod should be stored in a shaded area and/or covered when possible. Water the entire pallet of sod during the course of installation, especially if the sod is exposed to direct sunlight and winds. Wet all the soil and green edges.

Ground Preparation — Soil preparation for laying sod is the same as for seeding grass. Refer to above section on soil preparation for planting turf.

Finished Grade — The final grade should be smooth and level where possible. Avoid sharp dips and “lumps” at grade level. Remove as many stones as possible. Hand raking helps provide a uniform surface. If the soil is too soft the sod will sink and edges will dry out. Roll if necessary at this point.

Direction and Patterns — Start by laying the sod with the “long” edge of the sod running with the length of the site (if the site is not drastically sloped). A sidewalk may be used as a starting point, if it is long and straight. If there are not straight lines to work from place a string-line across the job site. Make sure that the last row of sod strips are at least 6″- 8″ wide where they will lay. Thin strips struggle to grow and dry out quickly. On hilly and highly sloped areas, start the sod running lengthwise across the hill. This will prevent the sod from sliding down the hill. Stake sod pieces with nails or wire strips on steeper slopes.

Joining Sod Pieces — The ends of the sod must be staggered–like cement blocks in a wall. This prevents the sod from sagging downhill on slopes and the ends from drying out as well. Staggered ends also allow the sod pieces to “disappear” more quickly.

Handling Edges — The cut edges should be slightly curled downward before the sod pieces are finally set in place. Curling allows the sod to have “extra room” at the edges, and allows the soil edges to meld after proper rolling. This minimizes drying out which can occur at the edges if the sod shrinks after placement.

Clean Cuts — Cut around obstacles (fixtures, walkways, bed edging, etc.) with a sharp knife. If the sod is “undercut”, drying out will occur. If the sod is over cut, the sod may be elevated within the piece, and be slow to root, or worse, dry out and die. Make cuts around objects first, since recutting is possible before the rest of the sod in that row is installed.

Rolling — Roll over the sod soil in two directions. This forces the sod into the prepared soil bed for quicker rooting; Rolling also pushes the sod pieces together which helps minimize drying out.

Irrigation — Water the sod 3 to 4 times daily for short intervals for 10 to 14 days. Avoid soaking the sod continuously and at night. After the sod begins to “knit” and is hard to pull up, begin to water once per day, for a longer period of time. Then, decrease irrigations to every second or third day.

Information pulled from Arizona Cooperative Extension, College of Agriculture, The University of Arizona.

Slow Growing Fine Fescue Ideal for Low Maintenance Situations

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Low maintenance, high performing fine fescue.

Fine fescue species, such as creeping red (Festuca rubra), chewing (Festuca rubra subsp. commutata), sheep (Festuca ovina), and hard (Festuca longifolia), are best suited for cooler climates. Reduced input (water and fertilizer) requirements make these grasses ideal for low maintenance situations like roadsides, vineyards, orchards, soil reclamation sites and areas with hillside erosion. Fine fescues are more shade tolerant than most other species. Their non-aggressive growing habit, and reduced maintenance needs make them adaptable to most areas where ground cover is needed but receives little attention. Fine fescues can also be used in home lawns, parks, and golf courses.

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Information provided by Grassland Oregon

Echo’s Newest Trimmer ProXtreme Series SRM-2620

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Calling the ECHO ProXtreme Series the most powerful 26cc engine family ever developed, ECHO is redefining the performance standard for professional landscapers with the launch of its new 2620 products. The new ECHO 2620 lineup includes a standard trimmer (SRM-2620), a high-torque trimmer (SRM-2620T), a brushcutter (SRM-2620U), and an edger (PE-2620).

The ProXtreme Series 2620 power head is what makes this lineup exceptional. It offers a unique combination of high power and low weight. The newly designed 25.4 cc professional-grade two stroke engine delivers 1.35 horsepower. The weight reduction is achieved primarily by using military-grade magnesium versus aluminum. Better air filtration is provided by using a two-stage air filtration system. An insulator plate and flexible bellow-style fuel transfer system dramatically reduces heat. That system, combined with a remote fuel tank air vent versus an integrated fuel cap vent, prevents clogging and reduces re-start issues. The larger fuel tank allows for extended run time between fill ups.

Click here for video!